squamish 2004 with boealps icc

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Saturday 22May - In the a.m. Clifton Teschke and I hiked up the centre and north summits of the Chief with Dave Stephens and Ben Leishman. This was a great activity for a wet morning - Good aerobics, spectacular views, environs.

In the p.m. we climbed Banana Peel on the Apron. I lead the first pitch so that Clifton could get a feel for the friction without getting wigged out. He said that he felt he would be comfortable leading up to 5.6. Clifton lead the short friction section above the birch tree (5.6) and I lead the waves past the bolt to the short corner crux pitch. Clifton lead the rest of the climb except for the run out slab section above the alcove and the last half pitch where we swapped leads from his anchor.

Sunday 23May - Bob Bautista and I spent the morning checking out a route that Micah Lambeth suggested at a level that Bob felt he would be comfortable leading. The route was Slot Machine (5.8) and is located right near the campground with a short 5.7 approach. It is rightfully a two star route with a sporty start. Bob lead the full route, two short pitches (I helped a little with the start - he really didn't need it, just bit nervous with the cruxy start).

We then went to Smoke Bluffs, Burgers and Fries South and climbed Bilbo Baggins (5.9) and Gollum (5.7). Bob lead Bilbo Baggins. We felt it was similar climbing to Slot Machine, but less difficult. We then top roped Gollum to finish off the day and head for our rendezvous point (Starbucks).

belay off! gary